NV Pierre Gerbais Grains de Celles Champagne

Pierre Gerbais is a fourth generation domaine in the Aube, a region in southern Champagne that sits closer to Chablis than Épernay. The Aube—and within it the Côte des Bar—is decidedly cool at the moment. Long part of Burgundy, the Aube represents Champagne’s untapped potential. It’s a place where growers still own farmland and young winemakers can actually get started. 

At Pierre Gerbais, 20-or-30-something Aurélien Gerbais is organically tending old vine Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot blanc. While his practices are decidedly natural, his aesthetic is classic and Burgundian inspired. That is to say: precise, meticulous, pure. This bottle is a perfect example. A blend of all three of the estate’s varieties, this extra brut (read: very not sweet) Champagne was aged for three years in bottle before disgorgement—the process of removing sediment—and dosage—the process of adding sugar. It begins with an orchard. There is red apple, pear, and blossom at play, all  lined with a savory Pinot tinge. It’s downright velvety on the palate, with a creamy mousse and medium-to-full body balanced expertly by a piercing acidity and smoky minerality. We love all sparkling wine here, but there is nothing better than Champagne when the occasion calls for it. (Like a promotion or a really big bowl of buttered popcorn.) For the price, there are few Champagnes that compete with this bottle.